Pulqueria (filha de Teodosio I)
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A unidadeé de medida]] da indústria têxtil mais frequentemente utilizadas, como denier, são descritas seguidamente.
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Denier
Denier é uma unidade de medida do Sistema Inglês da densidade lineal de massa de Fibra|fibras]]. Define-se como a massa em grama]]s pela cada 9.000 metros de fibra.
Distingue-se entre denier de filamento e denier total. Ambos se definem como o dito no parágrafo anterior, mas o primeiro (conhecido como Denier Por Filamento ou D.P.F.), refere-se unicamente a um filamento da fibra, enquanto o outro refere-se a uma aglomeración de filamentos.
A seguinte relação aplica-se aos filamentos unitarios:
- D.P.F. = Denier Total / Quantidade de Filamentos Uniformes
O sistema denier de medición usa-se para fibras de um e dois filamentos. Alguns cálculos comuns são os seguintes:
| 1 denier | = 1 grama por 9.000 metros |
| = 0,05 gramas por 450 metros (1/20 do anterior) |
- Uma fibra geralmente considera-se como microfibra se é de 1 denier ou menos.
- Uma fibra poliéster de 1 denier tem um diámetro de ao redor de 10 micrómetros.
- O denier usa-se como medida de densidade para médias]], o qual define sua opacidade.
Mommes
Mommes (mm) é uma unidade de importância tradicionalmente usada para medir a densidade da seda. It is similar to the use of thread count for cotton fabrics. Mommes express the weight in pounds, of a piece of material of size 45 inché by 100 yards.
Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). 28 grams = 1 ounce. 8 momme = 1 oz.
The usual range of momme weight for different weaves of silk are:
- Habutai - 5 to 16 mm
- Chiffon - 6 to 8 mm (can bê made in double thickness, i.e. 12 to 16 mm)
- Crepe de Chine - 12 to 16 mm
- Gauze - 3 to 5 mm
- Raw silk - 35 to 40 mm (heavier silks appear more 'wooly')
- Organza - 4 to 6 mm
Tex
Tex is a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers and is defined as the mass in grams per 1000 meters. Tex is more likely to bê used in Canada and Europe, while denier remains more common in the United States. The unit code is "tex". The most commonly used unit is actually the decitex, abbreviated dtex, which is the mass in grams per 10,000 meters. When measuring objects that consist of multiple fibers the term "filament tex" is sometimes used, referring to the mass in grams per 10,000 meters of a single filament.
Tex is used for measuring fiber size in many products, including cigarette filters, optical cabo, yarn, and fabric.
One can calculate the diameter of a filament given its weight in dtex with the following formula:

where ρ represents the material's density in grams per cubic centimeter and the diameter is in cm.
Thread
Thread is a cotton yarn measure, equal to 54 inches.
Thread count
Thread count is a measure of the coarseness or fineness of fabric. It is measured by counting the number of threads contained in one square inch of fabric, including both the length (warp) and width (weft) threads. It is used especially in regard to cotton linens such as bed sheets.
Thread count is a simples measure of fabric quality, so that "standard" cotton thread counts are around 150 while good-quality sheets start at 180 and a count of 200 or higher is considered percale. Extremely high thread counts (typically over 500) tend to bê misleading as they usually use 'plied' yarns. i.e. one yarn that is made by twisting together multiple finer threads. For marketing purposes, a fabric with 250 yarns in both the vertical and horizontal direction could have the component threads counted to a 1000 thread count although "according to the National Textile Association, which cites the international standards group ASTM, accepted industry practice is to count each thread as one, even threads spun with two- or three-ply yarn. The Federal Trade Commission agrees and recently issued a warning that consumers 'could bê deceived or misled' by inflated thread counts."[1]
In 2002, ASTM proposed a definition for "thread count" [2] that tens been called "the industry's first formal definition for thread count" .[3]
Older, informal definitions include the "Ou.S. Customs Harmonized Tariff Schedule, which states each ply should bê counted as one using the "average yarn number." [4] "
Referências
Enlaces externos
- Têxtiles Intelligence Glossary (em inglês).em:Units of textile measurement
